I have found my new happy place. A four-hour-plus drive from both my home state of New York and adopted state of Pennsylvania is a vast region of sloping hillsides, endless acres of farmland and vineyards, winding trails dotted with high waterfalls, and nearly a dozen natural water lakes.

This is Finger Lakes Wine Country.

I’ve had a crush on the Finger Lakes (FLX for short) since my first sip of their famous Riesling wine at an Edible magazine event in New York City several years back. I remember taken a back by the sharp, crisp bubbles dancing on my tongue and the sweetness that lingered after. I remember hurrying from table to table, excited to try the next glass that accompanied each amuse bouche, surprised with each tasting. I walked away that evening more in love with wine. I vowed to visit the Finger Lakes in upstate northwestern New York, a new-to-me far off destination, one day.

In 2019, my wish finally came true. It’s been a little over a year and I’ve since returned to the FLX three times with no plan on stopping anytime soon. Each visit has been during a different season. Each visit a playground of nature-filled activities. Each visit a reminder of how generous the land and the people that call it home are. Each visit a reason to come back soon. Even in the face of a global pandemic, the FLX continue to open its arms, eager to show off its unspoiled elements.

Finger Lakes Welcome Center - Geneva, NY

In spring and summer, the twinkle of the lakes put a smile on my face when they slowly come into view as we drive through winding roads. As we get closer to the shores at the bottom of the bluffs, the pontoon boats slowly go by. Inside, families and friends are ready to dive into the cold, clear waters. Up on the hills, breweries and wineries are filled with locals and regulars, dogs by their side, corn hole games setup on the grass. Nothing but laughter and the clinks of glasses as tastings flow into the early evenings.

In the fall and winter as the leaves change and the weather drops, people flock to their nearest trail for early morning family hikes. Off-leash dogs, nose to the ground, lead the way, on paths they’ve walked for years. Couples on bikes stroll alongside creeks and streams. Everyone enjoying their journey, anticipating the payoff of stunning gorges and waterfalls that may wait ahead.

At night the skies open up revealing jaw-dropping sights of stars above. Despite the stark blackness of the night, it’s easy finding comfort in the silence. It is during these retreats that I sleep the best, feel refreshed and immerse myself in the outdoors.

Now, during these times of much-needed respite, the FLX provide a social distance-friendly getaway for all. This is how I make the most of the FLX, and how you can too, safely.

There are eleven lakes (!) that define the Finger Lakes: Canadice, Canandaigua, Cayuga, Conesus, Hemlock, Honeoye, Keuka, Otisco, Owasco, Seneca, and Skaneateles. Each of the Finger Lakes offer their own unique activities — on land, on water, and up in the air — which can easily fill up your itinerary. Plan your stay around a lake to make getting around easier.

Before exploring Finger Lakes Wine Country, take a moment to learn about their latest reopening guidelines to ensure you have a safe visit.

save #myflx google map itinerary

Seneca Lake

Seneca Lake is a popular choice for many good reasons: its the second longest lake [perfect for watersport lovers], it’s centrally located, its home to award-winning vineyards, and numerous state parks like dog-friendly Sampson State Park and the famous Watkins Glen. We tend to spend time in Geneva at the top of Seneca Lake for downtown hangs along Linden Street. Our stops include Monaco’s Coffee for a morning pick-me-up, Fry Bird to snack on crispy, flakey, juicy fried chicken and waffles, dinner at Red Dove Tavern or Sausage and Beer to mingle with locals, and a nightcap at The Linden Social Club. From there we make our way south along Route 14 spreading out wine tastings at Ravines Wine Cellars, Fox Run Vineyards, Red Tail Ridge, and more. We often bookend our trips at the bottom of Seneca Lake for a hike through the cliffs and waterfalls that lead to the Central Cavern Cascade at Watkins Glen. Our wolfhound pup is fond of the pet-friendly Indian and South Rim Trails there, too. Our most recent Seneca Lake trip was made extra special with a visit to Sunset View Creamery Farm to say hi to my favorite dairy farm cows of Instagram!

Cayuga Lake

No FLX road trip is complete without a stop at Ithaca Bakery at the bottom of Cayuga Lake, the longest of the FLX. This college town cafe has a plethora of homemade baked goods, sandwiches, and drinks that make it the perfect road trip stop whether you’re entering or leaving the region. Our tradition is arriving for late breakfast/early lunch to stock up on bagels and coffee. Whatever you choose to eat here, it’s always fresh and delicious and comforting. We often walk off the carbs just a few miles north on I-89 at Taughannock Falls State Park which features one of my favorite waterfalls. Following the western side of Cayuga is Lively Run Dairy Farm and Creamery, a family-owned goat farm open to visitors May through October. Every time I visit the FLX, I try to make a visit to a farm to spend time with animals, pick up artisanal cheese (travel further north for a visit to Muranda Cheese), or explore Amish farm stand goods. Nothing makes me happier than being surrounded by farm animals in the countryside - it reminds me of how I grew up in Puerto Rico on my family’s farm! Interlaken, a small town near Lively Run, is a beautiful and quiet place to consider staying overnight. Book a private suite at The Holiday House, a farmhouse bed and breakfast run by a couple who call both New York City and FLX home.

Taughannock Falls State Park - Cayuga Lake

Keuka Lake

West of Seneca Lake is the Y-shaped Keuka Lake, one of the smaller but not to be missed lakes in the region. This past fall we spent five days isolated on a lake house in Branchport thanks to the hospitality of Finger Lakes Premier Properties on the northern shore of Keuka and it was absolute heaven. Each morning we’d wake up with our pup for coffee on the back patio greeting the ducks and boats out on the lake. At night we’d return for sundown with a glass of wine as my partner and I cooked dinner together. Our days were spent outdoors driving through Penn Yann, hiking with our pup along the tranquil Keuka Lake Outlet Trail, picking apples and more importantly, apple cider donuts at Wager's Cider Mill, taste testing all the seasonal flavors at Ice Cream At Seneca Farms and Spotted Duck (frozen custard made from duck eggs - which means creamier goodness!), and meeting wine producers at Keuka Spring Vineyards and McGregor Vineyard.

Morning lake vibes in Branchport - Keuka Lake

Canandaigua Lake

Continuing northwest to Canadaigua Lake you’ll be chasing waterfalls at Grimes Glen Park and Conklin’s Gully, but at no easy feat. Both are located within miles of each other outside of small town Naples, New York and if you’re up for a challenge, are worth conquering as a double header hiking day. Bring water proof, sturdy boots and practice your balancing postures because the main trail at Grimes Glen requires treading through a stream over slippery rocks. If you’re one of the lucky ones to make it through unscathed (unlike me), you’re rewarded with two waterfalls over 50 feet high! The Rim Trail at Conklin’s Gully will push your limits immediately with a steep incline for the first quarter of a mile. But conquering that peak is worth it once you arrive at the top and see the stunning views of its canyon below. The rest of the 2.1 mile loop allows you to catch your breath and soak in the sights — and sounds — of the forest. Be sure to treat yourself to homemade German sausages at Brew & Brats at Arbor Hill after, and don’t leave without a stop overlooking Canadaigua Lake along Route 21.

Brew & Brats at Arbor Hill - Canandaigua Lake

Ithaca

Just south of the official FLX Wine Country is Ithaca which boasts 150 waterfalls, an award-winning cider scene (nearly sweeping top categories in the 2019 and 2020 Great American Cider Competition), numerous trails accessible by bike and on foot, plus a downtown district with bars, restaurants, and grabbing Big Red merch. Here’s what an ideal visit to Ithaca entails:

Take the waterfalls challenge starting at Taughannock Falls, Buttermilk Falls, Cascadilla Gorge, or Beebe Lake
Walk or bike the Cayuga Waterfront Trail for an early weekend morning visit to Ithaca Farmers Market, or grab a coffee and bite nearby at Ithaca Bakery
Learn about beekeeping and why bees are crucial to sustaining our food ecosystem at Honeybee Embassy
Celebrate #CiderWeekyNY year-round and taste the plethora of apple varieties at New York Cider Co., Southhill Cider, FLX Cider House, Black Diamond Farm and others
Shop and eat local at Downtown Ithaca Commons — pizza at Thompson and Bleecker Pizza, Cornell University attire, and wine to-go at The Cellar d'Or Wine, Cider & Spirits

new york cider co-ithaca farmers market.JPG

Perhaps my favorite way to experience the Finger Lakes, especially as we crave peace of mind, is by simply being. We often coast down the highways, admiring the surroundings, picking out our future dream barn-turned-cottage, grinning at the sight of horse and buggy. With our rescue dog, we love going off the beaten path of trails and retreating at our rental to cook a warm meal, making the social distancing rules feel not so lonely. Or taking long, quiet walks along a lake, staring out into the distance and appreciating what mother nature continues to offer. Regardless of how you spend time here, make sure to leave this place we love better than you found it.

Get Lost in the Finger Lakes! [Sweater by Lost FLX Design Shop]

All photos c/o my partner and photographer, Philippe LeSaux.

Roadtrip Report: Finger Lakes Wine Country